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Sponsored Review · Kitchen

I have a 480-sq-ft kitchen. I bought a cast iron skillet anyway.

The internet told me my apartment was too small for cast iron. Sixty days later I have one pan that has replaced three, my counter is less cluttered than before, and I'm never going back.

A heavy cast iron skillet on a wooden trivet on a small cream-painted apartment kitchen counter, butter melting in the pan.
The Hearthstone 10-inch on a Sunday morning. The kitchen has not gotten bigger. The skillet has just earned its square foot.

There is a particular flavor of internet advice that goes: "Cast iron is too heavy and too high-maintenance for a small apartment." I read versions of it for two years before buying one. I now think it is wrong — or at least wrong in the way that most online advice is wrong, which is that it treats every small apartment as identical and every cook as a beginner.

I am writing this on day 62 of cooking with the Hearthstone Iron Co. 10-inch skillet. Hearthstone sent it for review. They did not pay me to recommend it, and the deal we made was that the review would run regardless of what I concluded. (Full disclosure at the bottom; this is the second sponsored review I have written on Niva Living and the rules have not changed since the first.)

The case against cast iron in a small apartment, briefly

You will hear it goes like this: cast iron is heavy, hard to season, hard to clean, takes forever to heat, retains heat too long to be useful in a kitchen where you want to move on, and weighs eight pounds you have to lift every time you cook. Two of those five claims are true. Three are myths repeated by people who have used the wrong cast iron pan.

The two that are true: it is heavy, and it does retain heat longer than other pans. Both of those things become advantages by week three. The other three are about quality. Cheap cast iron is rough, takes ages to season, and rusts the second you blink. Good cast iron arrives pre-seasoned, smooth on the cook surface, and is genuinely easy to maintain. I had no idea this difference existed before I started this review.

"Cheap cast iron makes a bad case for cast iron. Good cast iron makes a different argument."

The skillet I actually used

The Hearthstone Iron Co. 10-inch is a heritage-style American cast iron pan. It comes pre-seasoned (the bottom of the pan is genuinely smooth, not the rough pebbled surface I had assumed all cast iron came with), with a poured handle that doesn't require an oven mitt for short cooks at moderate heat, and a finish that I have been deliberately neglecting for two months to test what happens. What happens is: nothing.

The four things I tested

Eggs were fine. I'm going to be honest: they were not great until day 11.

The pre-seasoning on this skillet is good, but eggs are unforgiving and the first 10 days I had a brief return to the carbon-steel-week-one nightmare. By day 11 the pan had built up enough additional seasoning from my cooking that eggs released cleanly. By day 30 they slid. By day 60 it is now slightly better at eggs than my carbon steel, which is a sentence I would not have believed I'd ever type.

Where the heavy thing becomes a feature

The eight pounds matters when you're picking it up to wash it. The eight pounds is irrelevant for cooking, and is in fact the reason this pan does what cast iron is famous for. It holds heat. You can sear a steak, take it off the burner, and the pan will keep cooking for two more minutes after the flame is off. This is how you get a restaurant crust without a restaurant broiler. Carbon steel doesn't do this. Nonstick definitely doesn't do this. Heat retention is the entire pitch.

The small-apartment counter-argument

Here is where I want to push back at the internet most directly. The reason a small apartment kitchen benefits from a heavy pan is not "lifestyle aesthetics." It is that one good cast iron skillet replaces three lesser pans. Mine has retired:

That is three pans gone from my cabinet. I now have more cabinet space than I had before I bought a "huge" cast iron skillet. The arithmetic isn't intuitive until you do it.

The honest list of downsides

What I genuinely love

Would I tell my friends in small apartments to buy one

Yes. With a single caveat: if you have any wrist or shoulder issue, get the 8-inch and not the 10-inch. The 8-inch is plenty for one person cooking for one or two. The 10-inch is what I use because I sometimes feed three at a card table and I'd rather lift the heavier pan than do two batches.

The "cast iron is too heavy for small apartments" advice gets the trade-off backwards. The point is not whether the pan is heavy. The point is whether the pan is good enough that it replaces three other pans. This one is. My counter agrees.

— Niva